
Replacing cartridge bearings is not as simple as it seems.
Remove
a worn out bearing
In most cases when you have to pop out a hub bearing you can only push it
on its internal race. This operation will generally damage or compromise bearing
races. If you are going to replace a worn out bearing this is marginal problem.
Remove a bearing that's still good
In
case you have to re install that bearing later avoid to hit the internal race
with the mallet, even threaded extractors or press can damage bearing balls
and races. Try to warm up the hub-shell with a hairdryer, this will allow
an easier pop out of bearings and softens eventual Loctite or coaxial anaerobic
glue that could have been used at the factory assembling.
Insert
the new bearing
The new bearing should always be inserted pressing it on the same race the
hub retains it from.
Cartridge bearings are generally fitted into the hub-shell with some interference
on the outer bearing race.
In this case you have to press the bearing in pushing it exclusively on its
outer race. Pressure or hits on the bearing internal race will permanently
damage the new bearing balls and races.
To properly press in the new bearing its necessary to use a special inserting
tool (inserting tools are specifically made for each bearing size). Use only
an inserting tool that is made for your exact bearing size.
Extralite offers a complete tool-set for hub maintenance, the Pro-tool kit
1 includes bearing inserting tools in every bearing sizes used on UltraHubs
/ HyperHubs.
Use the old bearing to protect the new one
As last alternative you could use the old bearing to carefully press in the
new one as follows (use this method for emergency only)
- the 2 bearings should be perfectly aligned
- the mallet should hit only the external race of the worn bearing
- insert the bearing at small increments at 120° and keep it perfectly
flat.
Remind that when you'll insert the hub axle it has to pop into the bearings
with only a limited hand pressure. Forcing the axle to get it through the
bearing will permanently damage the new bearing balls and races (Force amount
is directly related to bearing load capacity).
Hub-shell
/ cartridge bearing interference
As general rule the pressing interference between hub-shell and bearing should
be around 0.01mm. An intereference of 0.02mm applied on a thin bearing (ex.
6802 - 6803 etc.) can compromise the ball-races tolerance matching (on qualty
bearings ball-races matching/coupling leaves less than 0.003mm of play).
If the bearing is pressed in with too high interference it can't rotate perfectly
smooth and will wear out prematurely.
The opposite case of a slightly loose bearing fitting can generally be properly
cured using Loxeal 83.21 / Loctite 260 or equivalent products (coaxial couplings).
Hybrid
Ceramic bearings
A proper bearing and axle inserting is even more important when you are willing
to mount hybrid-ceramic bearings. The ceramic balls feature a very hard surface
that can dinge the bearing steel races very easily. Additionally hybrid-ceramic
bearings require more precise tolerance matchings. Too much interference of
bearing outer-race with its hub-shell fitting can often result into rough
rolling bearing. The same can happen when axle needs too much pressure to
get into the bearing inner-race.
Bearing
seals and friction
Bearing seals are
often the first resposable of bearing durability.
Tighter seals increase
friction however do not over estimate it. The bearing friction can't be judged
statically just rotating it with your fingers.
In the real use when the bearing balls rotate under load they rub and rotate
between races, this makes much more friction than a well tight and protective
seal that could keep your bearings spinning smoothly for long time.
Good seals are really a must on MTB
use.
Bearing
durabilty
Bearing durability is related to a great number of factors such as seal type
and conditions, use mode and frequency, environment, washing mode and frequency,
hub maintenance and lubing and more, this makes each individual case really
different.
In highly corrosive environments the ceramic ball resists to corrosion and
help to clean the hard steel races. In such circumstances the overall durability
could be even higher than steel bearings but this is generally uncommon.
Ceramic Bearings
Bearing
friction
The bearing friction
should be judged under load when ball rub and rotate between races. In these
circumsances the use of hybrid ceramic bearings can offer an advantage.
Today
quality standards
Hi-end bearing
manifacturers have now acheived much higher quality standards than only few
years ago. Quality hybrid ceramic bearings are now made with incredibly hard
steel races that can survive the coupling with ceramic balls for a much longer
life.
Durabilty
The latest generations of hybrid-ceramic bearings as ABI Zero and HDC offer
a good durabilty that is comparable to the corrispondent steel unit. Earlier
bearing generations could only offer a fraction of the durability of a regular
steel bearing.
In highly corrosive environments the ceramic ball resists to corrosion and
help to clean the hard steel races. In such circumstances the overall durability
could be even higher than steel bearings but this is generally uncommon.
Advantages
/ disadvantages
Do not over-estimate the
advantages of hybrid ceramic bearings. Their durability is equal or lower
than steel ones, price is higher, all in exchange of a slightly lower rolling
resistance.
When you are choosing to use hybrid-ceramic bearings be aware that the lower
rolling resistance is the sole advantage they can offer besides a very very
slight weight reduction (ca 1gr. less on each hub bearing).
Nasty
ginmicks
To enhance the feel of low-rolling resistance some non-serious manifacturer
equip their bearing with non-touching seals and you can see them spinning
for minutes, surprised.
Those bearings in reality last only few rides, then collect dirt directly
into their ball races and get immeediately ready for replacement (no surprise).
Full-ceramic
bearings
Among bike enthusiasts
several tryed to employe full-ceramic bearings in order to save weight and
further reduce the rolling resistance. Unfortunately with today technology
a properly dimensioned steel bearing can not be replaced with a full-ceramic
bearing of the same dimensions. Size should grow up significantly and this
voids weight savings meantime requires a specifically designed hub-shell.
Additionally note that even full-ceramic bearing manifacturers are openly
not recommending their products for bicycle applications due to the ceramic
material fragility. Typical bicycle application involves high impact resistance
at low rpm (10-100 min.) while the typical full-ceramic bearing application
is at very high rpm (over 20.000 min.) and absorbs only low impacts.
Read Mountain Bike Action
August 2007 article
"Ceramic Bearings 101: will they make you faster?"
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